By now, it was well past 300 pm and we managed to claim our right to the
room. As we were heading out, we stopped by the reception to pick up a city centre
map but mostly to see if we can get a few tips on where we can stand to get a
perfect glimpse of the evening Semana Santa procession. During half english and
half dumb-charades type banter, she told us that the ticket line to the Real
Alcazar is usually massive and it’s important to book it online, we promptly
agreed her advice and later found out how true it was.
Originally founded as a fort governors of Seville in 913, the Alcázar has
been expanded or reconstructed many times in its existence. The history goes
that in the 11th century, Seville’s prosperous Muslim rulers developed the
original fort by building a palace called Al-Muwarak. Later on, in the 12th-century,
the Almohad rulers added another palace. However, in 1248, the Christian
monarch, Fernando III captured Seville and moved into the Alcázar. Fernando’s
son then replaced much of the Almohad palace with a Gothic one. The credit for
the best part of Alcazar however goes to Pedro who between 1364 and 1366
created the Alcázar’s crown jewel, the sumptuous Mudéjar Palacio de Don Pedro.
Needless to say, this is a UNESCO world heritage site and the palace is still
used by the Spanish royal family when they are in Seville
The palace can be entered from the Plaza del Triunfo through the Puerta del
León or Lion's Gate. From the ticket office inside the Puerta del León (Lion
Gate) you emerge into the Patio del León (Lion Patio), which was the start of
the original Al-Muwarak palace. Off to the left of the Patio del León one can
enter the Sala de Justica (“Hall of Justice”). This room was likely used as a
residence of Peter I during the construction of his palace. Also, it is
said that Peter’s step-brother, Don Fadrique, was murdered in this room by
order of Peter himself.
Passing through the rear
arch of the Patio del León, one enters the heart of the complex which is called
the Patio de la Montería.
Patios De La Monteria
Patios de la Monteria is named after the hunters (monteros) who met here
with the King before they went out hunting.
In front is the Palacio del
Ray Pedro I de Castilla (“Palace of King Peter I of Castille”), built in 1364.
On the left is the Palacio Gótico (“Gothic Palace”), built in the mid-13th
century. On the right is the Casa de la Contratación (“House of Trade”) where
Columbus signed his contract with Queen Isabella.
At this point the husband
needs a restroom break. It is extremely important that the husbands visits every
bathroom at every place – be it a restaurant, a café, a theatre, a cinema or
any other location so why leave out the Real Alcazar. Once the husband is back,
we continue on the most magnificent part of the Alcazar - Palacio del Ray
Pedro I
Palacio del Ray Pedro I
The Palace of King
Don Pedro I starts with a facade which harmoniously marries Moorish
features - horseshoe arches, Arabic lettering ("No one is victorious
but Allah") - with Christian words (the very noble... Don Pedro...
ordered ordered these Alcazares built"). It is amazing how the both co-exist.
Hall of Ambassadors – This
was the main hall of the palace and the throne room of the king Pedro I. It’s a
sqaure room similar to Muslin “Quba” where the square represents the earth and
the dome represents the universe. A decoration of the combed muquarnas forming
a star joins the square to the circle.
Patio De La Doncellas
The Courtyard of the Damsels
was the centre of public area of the king Peter I palace. Its surrounded by the
poly lobed arches, one of the most characteristic motifs of the Almohad dynasty.
This was named for the legend that the Moorish rulers of Andalusia would demand
100 virgins from the Christian kingdoms each year. This story was used to
spur the Christian reconquest of the Moorish territories that took place during
the Middle Ages.
Patio de las Muñecas (“Court of
the Dolls”)
Private life in the Palace of Pedro I revolved
around the Patio de las Muñecas, which leads to the bedrooms and private halls.
The small hall is enclosed by a gallery with marble columns and lobed arches.
The name of the Patio de las Muñecas - Patio of the Dolls - is derived from
four small heads that decorate one of the arches.
From the Mudéjar Palace we
passed without realizing it into the Gothic Palace, and entered the Gothic
Palace Chapel. From the palace we passed out into the massive Gardens of
the Alcázar.
The Gardens
A visit to the Royal Alcazar also allows entry into the royal gardens. The
expansive area is divided into a number of separate gardens some of which are
terraced.
The first thing that caught our eye was the lovely Pond
of Mercury. It is said that the This pond was originally an irrigation
reservoir that was fed by a Roman aqueduct! In 1575, it was converted
into a more decorative pool with a theme based on the Roman god Mercury, the messenger of the God.
From the pond you have a view over a walled-in section of the garden, laid out
in a formal style. To the right of the pond are a number of smaller terraced
gardens all connected to each other via gates and small staircases. The gardens
are decorated with fountains, grottos, a labyrinth and even a small artificial
mountain.
The arch is connected to a gallery - the Galeria del Grutesco - which was
once part of the original Moorish palace.
Garden View from the Gallery
All in all, the Alcazar is a must visit when you are in Seville and specially if you want to avoid going all the way to Granada to see the Alhambra.
Few weeks later, when husband and I are watching Game Of Thrones season 6, we will get excited to see that the Alcazar gardens are the gallery are being used to show 'Dorne'.
Perhaps, this will make us go back again !
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